What a Quick Walk-Around at the Auction Yard Can't Tell You
A quick yard walk-around can't show how a car runs, its frame, flood damage, or wiring. Here's what to check before you bid.

Bidding with your gut is how people overpay at salvage auctions. A one-page sheet to fill in before every bid, working backward from what the car is worth fixed.
Most bad auction buys have the same story: the bidding got exciting, and the buyer went over the number they should have stopped at. Or they never had a number at all.
Fill this in before every bid. Then don't go over it.
Look up what the same year, model and trim sells for with a rebuilt title in your area, not a clean title. Rebuilt cars sell for less. Use real sold prices, not asking prices. See salvage vs. rebuilt titles.
Worth when done: $______
Repair and paperwork total: $______
Look up the buyer fee for your target bid and payment method, plus gate, environmental and internet fees. See what a $3,000 Copart bid really costs and wire or card. If you use a broker, add their fee too. See broker fees.
Auction and broker fees: $______
Your profit, for your time and risk. Be realistic. A car that takes 40 hours should make more than one that takes 8.
Profit: $______
Worth when done − repairs and paperwork − fees − profit = max bid.
Since fees go up with the bid, you may need to check it twice. Plug your max bid back into the fee calculator and adjust.
Put your max bid in as a pre-bid, or decide before the live auction that you'll stop there. If you lose, there's another car tomorrow. There always is.
Keep your sheets. After a few cars you'll see where your guesses are usually off, and your next sheet gets better. See also pricing a salvage flip.
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