Reading a Copart Listing: Damage Codes, Title Types, Run-and-Drive

A Copart listing packs a lot into a few lines. First-time buyers skim the photos and the price; experienced flippers read every field, because each one changes what the vehicle is worth. Here's what to look at.

01Damage: primary and secondary

Each lot lists a primary damage and often a secondary damage, using codes like:

• Front End, Rear End, Side (and left/right)
• Hail
• Water/Flood: see flood cars at auction
• Burn (Burn – Engine, Burn – Interior)
• Mechanical
• Minor Dents/Scratches
• Normal Wear
• Vandalism, Undercarriage, Rollover, Biohazard, All Over

The damage listed is what Copart or the seller noted, not a full inspection. A "Front End" truck can still have a bent frame or a dead engine. Treat it as a starting point.

02Sale document (title type)

This is the most important line. Common types:

• Clean title: no salvage brand.
• Salvage: declared a total loss; needs repair and usually a state inspection before it can be titled for the road again as rebuilt.
• Certificate of Destruction / Parts Only / Non-repairable: in most states this can never be titled for the road. Parts only.
• Other brands: flood, rebuilt, lemon buyback, and so on, by state.

The sale document's state matters too. The rules for retitling come from your state and sometimes the state the title came from. See salvage vs. rebuilt titles.

03Run and Drive, Engine Starts, Enhanced Vehicles

• Run and Drive: when the vehicle arrived at Copart, it started, went into gear and moved under its own power. That's all. It is not a promise that it's roadworthy, and it reflects check-in day, not today.
• Engine Starts: it started, but it wasn't verified to move. Could be a transmission problem, a locked brake, or just no room to move it.
• Enhanced Vehicles: the seller authorized (or the program allows) enhancement services, like a wash. It does not mean the vehicle runs.
• Nothing listed: assume it doesn't run until proven otherwise.

04Keys

"Keys: Yes" or "No." No keys on a modern vehicle can mean programming a new key or even replacing modules. Price it in.

05Odometer

Look for "Actual," "Exempt" or "Not Actual." Not Actual means the reading can't be trusted, which hurts resale.

06Estimated retail value and repair cost

These are estimates, not appraisals. Do your own math with real parts prices and local retail values.

07The photos

Zoom in on every one. Look at panel gaps, the frame rails and frame horns, airbag covers, the dash for warning lights, tire condition, and the ground under the vehicle for fluids. What's missing from the photos matters too: no engine-bay photo on a front hit is a reason to be cautious.

08The fine print

Read the lot's notes, the location's terms, and your state's buyer rules before you bid. Then do the math: how to buy at Copart without a dealer license covers fees and the all-in price.

Sources (3)

AutoBidMaster: Understanding damage codes; AutoBidMaster: The Run and Drive highlight; CarProxy: Copart terms.

Photo: still from Copart Long Island NY, 4K drone footage by itow on YouTube.

Related: Late October at Copart: Softer Prices or Just a Quieter Screen?