Used Parts Sourcing: Car-Part.com, LKQ, and Pull-Your-Own Yards

The difference between a salvage flip that makes money and one that doesn't is usually the parts bill. New OEM parts from a dealer can eat your profit in one order. Used parts from a salvage yard, at a fraction of the price, are how this business works.

01Car-Part.com: the search engine for salvage yards

Car-Part.com searches the inventory of salvage yards across the country. You pick the year, make, model and part, and it shows you which yards have one, its condition grade, mileage (for engines and transmissions) and price.

• Search by distance or by price. Close yards save shipping; far yards can be cheaper even with freight.
• Call the yard. Online listings can be outdated. Confirm the part is still there and ask for photos.
• Ask about warranty. Many yards offer a short warranty on engines and transmissions, sometimes with longer warranties for a fee.
• Big parts ship freight. An engine, a door or a bumper needs a freight quote. Some yards can arrange it.

02LKQ and the big recyclers

LKQ is the largest auto parts recycler in North America. It sells used OEM parts, remanufactured engines and transmissions, and aftermarket parts. Big recyclers like this have:

• Large inventories and online ordering.
• Consistent grading and warranties.
• Delivery to body shops and, in many areas, to individuals.

They're usually a little pricier than a small yard, but faster and easier.

03Pull-your-own yards

Self-service yards like LKQ Pick Your Part and Pull-A-Part let you walk in with your tools and pull the part yourself. Prices are posted by part type, not by vehicle, so a headlight costs about the same whether it came off an economy car or a luxury SUV.

• Cheapest option by far for small parts: mirrors, lights, trim, switches, modules, wheels, seats.
• Check the inventory online. Most chains list the vehicles on the lot and the date they were set out. New arrivals get picked over fast.
• Bring the right tools. Socket set, breaker bar, screwdrivers, trim tools, a battery impact if they allow it. No torches or jacks in most yards; cars sit on stands.
• Read the rules. Most require closed-toe shoes and don't allow kids.
• Ask about returns. Many offer store credit or a short exchange policy, sometimes with a small extra fee.

04Interchange: the secret to finding parts

A part off a different model or year often fits. Ford, GM and Chrysler share parts between trucks and SUVs, and many models keep the same parts for several years.

• Hollander interchange numbers are what salvage yards use to match parts. Car-Part.com searches by interchange behind the scenes.
• Twins: Silverado/Sierra, Tahoe/Yukon/Suburban, F-150/Expedition (some parts), Ram 1500 regular and Classic.
• Match the details: trim level, engine, options (heated mirrors, sensors, LED vs. halogen) all change part numbers.

05What to buy used, and what to buy new

Usually fine used:

• Body panels (doors, fenders, hoods, tailgates), especially in the right color
• Lights, mirrors, trim, grilles
• Wheels
• Seats and interior parts
• Engines and transmissions with a warranty and known mileage

Usually buy new:

• Brake parts (pads, rotors, calipers you're not rebuilding)
• Wear items: belts, hoses, filters, spark plugs
• Airbags: rules vary by state, and many shops won't install used ones. Check your state's law and follow the manufacturer's repair procedures.
• Radiators and AC condensers: aftermarket new is often cheap and better than used

06Keep every receipt

If you're going for a rebuilt title, your state may want receipts for the parts you used, with the donor vehicle's VIN for major parts. Keep everything.

07Factor it into your bid

Before you bid on a car, price the parts. Search the big ones (bumper, headlights, hood, radiator, airbags) on Car-Part.com and at your local pull-your-own yards. That number goes straight into pricing a salvage flip.

Related: Hail Truck vs. Wrecked Truck: Which One Is the Flip?